Introduction
When I saw this release from Benromach’s Contrasts range, the “High Enzyme” label immediately piqued my interest. I’ve always been drawn to whisky that explores subtle tweaks in production, and this particular bottle comes from a fermentation process designed to release more fermentable sugars through a higher level of enzymes. That kind of detail isn’t often the focus with Scotch, where maturation and cask influence take centre stage. So I picked this one up, curious to see if the mash tun could tell its own story for once.
Nose
On the nose, this whisky is understated but persistent. It opens with soft cereal aromas — porridge oats and wholegrain crackers — that feel raw and honest. There’s a slightly sour edge, but not unpleasantly so, more like the tangy zest of natural yoghurt. With a bit of time in the glass, I started to pick up faint orchard fruits — bruised pear and green apple — but they sit quietly in the background. No obvious cask influence, and any oak presence is extremely faint.
Palate
The palate maintains all the restraint of the nose. It enters quite dry and broad, with more of those gritty cereal flavours coming through — think crushed barley husks and oatcakes. There’s a savoury quality I found interesting, leaning slightly towards the umami spectrum, like toasted wheat crackers with a slight paper dryness. I kept waiting for a burst of fruit or sweetness to break through, but it never really came. This is a whisky that stays rooted in the mash — malt-led, minimally adorned.
Finish
The finish is short to moderate in length, holding onto that grainy dryness. There’s a woody bitterness on the tail end that feels like it comes more from the spirit itself than from oak. The memory it leaves is clean and unembellished — nothing cloying, but not particularly layered either. It just gently fades.
Price and Value
At around the £50 mark, this sits in the mid-range for a NAS bottling. Given the production curiosity behind it — longer fermentation, higher enzyme load — I think it offers something unusual for those who are particularly interested in the mechanics of whisky making. But as an everyday sipper, I probably wouldn’t reach for it often. It’s more about the process than the sensory arc.
Background
Benromach is based in Forres, in Speyside, but leans stylistically closer to older-school Scotch than many of its Speyside neighbours. Most of their core range uses a touch of peat, but this expression goes without it completely. The High Enzyme Edition is part of their Contrasts series, where the distillery isolates and tests specific variables in their process. In this case, the mash was exposed to a higher enzyme level, theoretically yielding more fermentable sugars and extending fermentation time.
The whisky is matured in first-fill ex-bourbon casks and bottled at 46% ABV, non-chill filtered and with natural colour. You can learn more about the Contrasts range and the distillery’s approach on the Benromach website.
Final Notes
Would I buy this one again? Probably not, unless I was specifically in the mood for something raw and production-centric. I’m glad I tried it — it’s informative rather than indulgent. For someone interested in what happens before the cask, this dram is almost educational.
Is it beginner-friendly? I'd say not really. A newcomer might find it a bit austere without the softening tones of sherry or peat that often draw people in initially.
Does it suit a particular moment? This strikes me as a dram for thoughtful tasting — not one for casual sipping. I had it neat, without distraction, and that seemed the right setting.
And how does it compare to other Speysiders? It’s more stripped back. While many Speyside malts lean fruity or lush, this one is rooted deep in the grain. It’s different — deliberately so — and that’s the point.