Introduction
I don’t usually open two special bottles on the same evening, but I’d been sitting on these for a while—the Ben Nevis 1998 and the Kildalton 2003, both bottled by The Whisky Jury—and they felt like they deserved a shared moment. Different in region, character, and build, they offered a great chance to compare two styles I enjoy: the earthy complexity of Ben Nevis and the lighter, slightly mysterious coastal touch of a younger, undisclosed Islay malt.
Nose
With the Ben Nevis 1998, the aroma struck me first with cooked orchard fruits—baked apples and a bit of warm pear—followed by a mineral note I'd usually associate with older Highland whisky. There was also some light industrial oiliness underneath, something I’ve come to expect from these 1990s vintages. Over time in the glass, I picked up dusty leather-bound books and a trace of bitter orange.
The Kildalton 2003 was quite different—much fresher on the nose, with wisps of dry smoke and a sea breeze quality. There was vanilla and lemon peel, some distant toasted peat, and a subtle waxiness I sometimes get from certain Islay distilleries that keep things understated. It's less aggressive than some heavily peated expressions but very clean and well-structured.
Palate
Tasting the Ben Nevis, I found a thick, oily texture. The flavour opened with stewed fruits—plums and apricots mainly—followed by a tangy minerality. There’s a faint metallic edge to it, not unpleasant, adding depth rather than distraction. A little spicy oak came through mid-palate, and that old-fashioned distillery funk lingered nicely. It's not the softest dram in terms of texture, but it delivers a compelling, layered experience.
On the other hand, Kildalton 2003 comes through with a much lighter body. More citrus-driven—grapefruit, lemon zest—balanced by gentle ashes and a sweet maltiness. There’s less brute force and more finesse here. I didn’t find much in the way of sherry or wine influence, so it seems to be ex-bourbon matured. Honestly, it tasted quite youthful despite its age, but in a clean, crisp way.
Finish
Ben Nevis 1998 finishes long and slightly drying, with echoes of stone fruits, barrel char, and old earth. The complexity didn't fade fast—it left behind that peculiar “dunnage warehouse” impression I love in well-aged Highland whisky.
Kildalton 2003’s finish is shorter, more muted. There’s a wisp of dry peat smoke that trails off gently, along with vanilla and a light saline edge. It doesn’t linger as long, but it stays consistent with the rest of the experience: precise and restrained.
Price and Value
Neither bottle is easy to find unless you’re hunting indie releases, and prices have certainly creeped up—even more so now that both are sold out in most places. Still, for what I paid originally, I think the Ben Nevis was well worth it for the character it brings and the increasing rarity of mid-90s bottlings. The Kildalton, while well-executed, felt a touch more straightforward and may not impress those looking for high impact, but it delivers steady quality.
Background
The Ben Nevis 1998 was a single cask release, matured for 23 years and bottled in 2022 by The Whisky Jury. Ben Nevis has a reputation for this kind of distillate: thick, slightly funky, and full of Highland character. Located in Fort William, the distillery has seen renewed interest in its 1990s stock for good reason. You can learn more about it on the Ben Nevis Distillery site.
As for the Kildalton 2003, it comes from a mystery Islay distillery—“Kildalton” refers to the road that links Ardbeg, Laphroaig, and Lagavulin, but no one confirms the exact source. This was aged 18 years and bottled in 2022 by the same indie bottler. Its delicate peat and clean profile point to ex-bourbon cask maturation. I’d guess it leans toward Ardbeg in style, given the recognisable smoky citrus quality, but of course, that’s just an educated guess.
Final Notes
Would I buy either of these again? If I had the chance, I’d snap up the Ben Nevis first—it feels like a piece of a quickly disappearing era, and the complexity is something hard to replicate. The Kildalton was very enjoyable too, but more in the "easy sipper" category rather than something to dissect over an evening.
For someone new to whisky, Kildalton would likely be more approachable. It's clean, lightly peated, and doesn't overwhelm the palate. The Ben Nevis demands a bit more attention—and probably more experience—but rewards it in kind.
I found that sharing these two whiskies side by side created a nice contrast: the weight and earthiness of the Highland spirit versus the coastal, smoky finesse of Islay. If you’re looking for variety in a tasting session, this pairing worked surprisingly well.
How does this compare to other Highland or Islay bottlings? The Ben Nevis stands out among Highlands for its distinct oily and mineral character, while the Kildalton offers a refined glimpse into what an age-mellowed Islay malt can become without leaning too heavily on peat smoke. Both bottles offered a lot to think about—and enjoy.